Brace yourself for a reminder that fashion can reshape a retailer’s very identity: Brian Godbold, the designer who helped redefine Marks & Spencer as a genuine fashion destination, has passed away at 82. His career bridged high street practicality and runway-inspired thinking, leaving a lasting mark on British apparel and beyond.
A Royal College of Art alumnus, Godbold believed that stylish, well-made clothes should be accessible to everyone. He used his position as M&S’s design director from 1977 to 1997 to elevate the store’s image and broaden its fashion appeal across men’s, women’s, and children’s wear, as well as home goods. This was a time when affordable yet chic options were not as omnipresent on UK streets, and his work helped shift that balance.
Inside M&S, Godbold faced frequent pushback, often operating behind the scenes in a restrained manner. Yet he persisted, translating a bold vision into measurable changes. Under his leadership, the retailer began hiring well-known designers to consult with buyers and in-house teams, a move that aligned M&S more closely with contemporary fashion while maintaining accessible pricing.
The collaborations he championed included Paul Smith for menswear and Betty Jackson for women's lines, with further partnerships spanning designers such as Julien Macdonald and Orla Kiely. These associations signaled a deliberate shift: fashion could be democratized without sacrificing quality or style.
After leaving M&S in 1997, Godbold continued shaping the industry from a governance angle. He became deputy chair of the British Fashion Council, where he played a pivotal role in nurturing emerging talent. Notably, he steered his former employer to fund what became the Newgen program, a cornerstone initiative that has supported generations of designers.
Godbold’s philosophy remained simple and enduring: investing in young designers is how a fashion ecosystem survives and thrives. He described Newgen as “our way of putting money back into the industry,” emphasizing Britain’s fashion heritage and its future potential. Today, the program continues to spotlight talents such as A Letter, Aaron Esh, Pauline Dujancourt, Steve O Smith, and Tolu Coker.
London Fashion Week’s ongoing energy reflects Godbold’s influence. At the start of the week, the Newgen exhibition drew attention, with royal engagement highlighting the program’s significance. Earlier in his career, he also served as a non-executive director for George at Asda and steered Ramon Gurillo Ltd, a knitwear business linked to his husband, further expanding his industry footprint.
In 2007, his contributions to design were formally recognized with an OBE from Queen Elizabeth II for services to fashion design.
Peers remember him as a thoughtful, boundary-pushing professional who helped M&S embrace fashionable, affordable options during a crucial era. Kim Winser, who worked with Godbold at M&S and later led Pringle and Aquascutum, recalled his inspirational leadership and his role in broadening design collaboration across the business. Virginia James, an M&S alumnus who now teaches fashion in London, spoke of Godbold’s kindness, keen eye for talent, and refined sense of style—from his meticulous workspace to his personal presentation.
As one colleague noted, Godbold’s impact extended beyond roles and titles: he mentored countless industry figures, including Daniel Marks, a prominent fashion publicist who credits Godbold with launching his Vogue career and encouraging international work opportunities. In every account, Godbold emerges as a mentor who believed in democratizing fashion and in the power of strong design to elevate everyday life.
He is survived by his husband, Ramon Gurillo, and by a wider family who carry forward his legacy of mentorship, collaboration, and a steadfast commitment to accessible, stylish clothing.
